Ask a Spanish cook what to judge a kitchen by and many will say the same thing: the croqueta. It is cheap, humble, and almost impossible to fake — which makes it the perfect test.
Why it is so revealing
A great croqueta is a paradox: a crisp, thin, evenly fried shell around a béchamel centre so soft it is almost liquid. Getting both at once takes a properly made béchamel, an overnight rest, careful crumbing and disciplined frying. There is nowhere to hide.
What good looks like
- Molten, not stodgy, inside — it should almost run.
- A thin, blistered shell that shatters, not a thick breaded jacket.
- Deep flavour — jamón, wild mushroom, salt cod — not just fried paste.
Croquetas worth a detour
- La Barra at Mercado Little Spain in Hudson Yards serves croquetas de jamón next to Andalusian puntillitas.
- José by Pizarro in Abu Dhabi, from chef José Pizarro, makes spicy chicken croquetas.
- El Bar in The Hague lists croquetas with pan con tomate and chorizo in cider.
- Restaurante Emilio in Mexico City, led by Spanish chef César de la Parra, serves Iberian ham croquettes.
Order them first
Croquetas are the ideal opening plate: order a couple, judge the kitchen, then plan the rest of your meal accordingly. Find kitchens that take them seriously in our directory.
